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Inside the glass ageing cabinet: the cut end of a bone-in rib loin on a steel rack, its outside dark and dry, the cut face deep red with fine fat through it, in front of a wall of glowing pink salt blocks

Aged by
the door.

A halal steakhouse with a butcher’s counter, in Hindmarsh.

Beef and lamb from South Australian farms hang in the glass cabinet by the door for three to six weeks, then go over charcoal for lunch and dinner, or home in paper from the counter.

DragSwipe across the loin to age its cut end

The cut end dries from the outside in, in cold air that never stops moving. We trim the dry edge away when you buy.

Whole loins lying end to end on a steel rack in the ageing cabinet, dark and dry outside after weeks in the cold, beside the cabinet’s brushed steel wall

28 days in the cabinet for this week’s rib-eye.

It hangs where you can see it.

Whole loins come in from farms on the Limestone Coast, the Fleurieu, the Mid North, Kangaroo Island and the Murray Mallee, and go straight onto the racks in the glass cabinet by the door.

They sit in front of a wall of salt blocks, in cold air that never stops moving. Over three to six weeks they lose water, firm up and darken.

Each loin is weighed in and weighed out, and its day is written down. The dry outside is trimmed at the counter when you buy, not before.

Take one home.

Rib-eye on the bone. Angus cross, Limestone Coast. 28 days in the cabinet. About 650 g, 4.5 cm thick. Down low for the crust, then up high and turned every minute or so, about 12 min. Rest 6 min.

Sirloin. Hereford, Fleurieu. 21 days in the cabinet. About 350 g, 3 cm thick, fat edge on. A minute down low, then up, 8 min. Rest 4 min.

Rump cap. Murray Grey, Mid North. 21 days in the cabinet. About 900 g, for two or three. Fat side down first, then high and slow, 20 min. Rest 10 min.

Bavette. Angus, Kangaroo Island. 14 days in the cabinet. About 500 g, flat. A minute close to the coals, then up, 6 min, sliced across the grain. Rest 3 min.

Lamb loin. White Suffolk cross, Murray Mallee. 10 days in the cabinet. About 400 g. Two minutes down low, then up, 8 min on the coals. Rest 4 min.

Put one aside

A butcher’s hands pulling the twine tight on a parcel of aged beef wrapped in white paper, the day it left the glass written on the paper in black marker

Wrapped at the counter, with the day it left the glass on the paper.

We’ll trim it while you wait and tell you how long to rest it. All our beef and lamb is halal. Take-home cuts from ten until three.

We don’t turn the fire down. We lift the meat.

Hardwood charcoal is lit out the back before lunch and fed to the fire through the day. The wheel on the grill lifts the grate on a chain: wound down close to the coals, a steak takes its crust in a minute or two; a hand’s width up, it cooks through gently.

The bars are V-shaped, so the fat runs along them to a gutter at the front instead of dripping onto the coals. We turn every steak every minute or so. Thick cuts go down low for their crust, then up high to finish; the rump cap goes on fat side first; the bavette gets a minute close to the coals and comes off quick.

With sound on you hear this steak: water leaving its surface, and fat meeting the coals.

Ours rest on a wire rack by the pass, uncovered.

Rib-eye on the bone, Angus cross, Limestone Coast. 28 days in the cabinet. About 650 g, 4.5 cm thick.

A rib-eye on the bone off the grill, resting on a small wire rack on the steel bench at the pass, a wisp of steam over it, white tiles behind

It rests half as long as it cooked.

This one rests six minutes on the rack.Four minutes to go.Two minutes to go.One minute to go.To the table.

Lunch on a steel table by the white tiles: a rib-eye on the bone on a timber board, charred broccolini with a blackened lemon, crushed potatoes, flatbread from the grill, tomato and onion with sumac, and a glass of water

Lunch and dinner at the tables.

Tuesday to Sunday: lunch from twelve, dinner from half past five. The counter opens at ten. Closed Mondays.

Sides

  • Charred broccolini with lemon
  • Potatoes crushed in beef dripping
  • Onions from the coals
  • Flatbread from the grill
  • Tomato, onion and sumac

To drink

  • Mint lemonade
  • Ayran
  • Black tea
  • Cardamom coffee
  • Sparkling water with lime

All our beef and lamb is halal, and there’s no alcohol on the list.

Book a table, or put a cut aside.

Tell us the day and how many of you there are, or which cut you’d like and when you’ll collect it. Cuts put aside wait for you at the counter from ten.

What would you like to do?

Coalwheel, Hindmarsh Rib-eye on the bone, 650 g Out of the glass the day we cut it Collect from ten

Put one aside, and it waits for you at the counter, in paper, with today’s date on it.

or push the paper up over itPut this one aside